Cuba Libre

The typical winter weather in Vancouver makes this the perfect time to daydream about getting far away from here... far away to places that require frequent applications of sunscreen and liberally dousings of beer. Fair enough, I say. For Canadians, Cuba is a popular beer-dousing spot, and a friend recently asked whether I had any tips for a trip down there. "Well, yes, friend. I do," I replied.

We visited Cuba a couple of years ago, thinking that Fidel would soon kick it and things would start to change. We wanted to catch a glimpse before it got all McDonalds and Coke-ifed. We're really not all-inclusive folk, but the problem is, we could get 10 nights at an all-inclusive resort with airfares for about $200 less than we could get just the airfares to Havana. What we decided to do was take the all inclusive in Varadero, but skip out for a few days and take our own trip to Havana.

There's really no reason not to do it (ummm, unless you're American. In which case, there are plenty of reasons) - Havana is a mere three hours from Varadero by comfortable, regular air-conditioned bus. Here are a couple of pointers if you're considering making the big break-out from your resort:

• Your resort is not going to like you visiting Havana on anything other than their officially sanctioned day trips. That means that they're not going to give you another one of those handy wristbands that entitles you to free beer in the resort if you cut it off while you're letting loose in Habana. Be prepared and pack some nail scissors and tape so you can cut off the band (and look like less of a tourist sucker in Havana) and reattach it when you get back to the resort.
  
• You have two choices for accommodation in Havana: nice established hotels (both of the old Cuban and slick European ilk) or "homestays". We stayed with a Cuban family who rented out two rooms in their house, but it was very basic and not for everyone. If you choose this option, be prepared for a lack of electricity and/or water at some stage.
  
• Once you're in Havana, walk everywhere. OK, not everywhere, but most places as they're really walkable and the city is quite safe. Also, that would mean that you had no excuse to take a coco-taxi, and that would be a sad thing.
  
• Havana Vieja is an amazing place to just wander around. The crumbling, classic colonial architecture will both make your heart break and your camera shutter click. There are a number of high-end independent boutique hotels, galleries and stores opening in this area that are worth looking around.
  
• When they say that music is the heart of Cuba, they're not lying. You will absolutely feel closest to the true Cuba when you're in a sweaty bar with a band (whichever band, it really doesn't matter) swaying with the music after a few too many mojitos. Sure - it will be a show put on for the tourists, but it won't be on a stage by the pool in your resort, and that's something.
  
• Keep in mind that you will get scammed when you're in Havana. You can do all of the research you want and put on your don't-mess-with-me pants, but they'll still get you with their tricky compliments and helpfulness. Do your reading and you'll probably just find yourself out a few bucks.
  
• The art in Cuba is amazing. There is plenty of public art (a lot of it is politically charged, as you would imagine) but the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Fine Arts) is a great place to stop to take in collections at a leisurely, air-conditioned clip.
  
• Enjoy the pace. Havana is a city, but the pace of life is unlike a North American city. Sit back and enjoy the rhythm... sit outside a cafe and watch people... settle in on a park bench and take it all in. These are real Cubans and they're taking it in too. Why wouldn't you?